As a pleasure-seeking meat eater, I am increasingly disappointed by grain-fed supermarket beef. Rib eyes require a slick of steak sauce to taste meaty. Ground beef has a tacky, greasy consistency. Tenderloin, even with tender care, always leaves me underwhelmed. So I decided to stop complaining about mass-market beef and find a rancher. I wanted to know my cattle producer. I wanted to know my cow.